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How Do You Reroof a House

How Do You Reroof a House

Every homeowner desires their house to be as safe and secure as can be. It all begins with the roof.

While roofing materials typically last 20-30 years, roofs will eventually deteriorate and may require several thousand dollars to be adequately replaced.

Luckily, any homeowner can replace their roof safely and affordably by using the correct materials, planning, taking measures, and putting in effort. 


Step 1 Familiarize yourself with the regulations concerning roofs in your area.

Familiarize yourself with the regulations concerning roofs in your area. Several construction regulations control the amount of shingle layers allowed on a roof and the types of materials that can be used for shingling.

Coastal regions with strong winds and hurricanes have different load and structural design needs compared to more inland locales.

If you reside by the sea and plan to roam your own house, you need to get the necessary licenses to guarantee the safety of your project.

Step 2: Acquire any required permits.

Get any required licenses. Consult your local government agency to see if you need a building permit before replacing the roof on your house. Permits are frequently provided by the Building Services Department of the city where you reside.

Usually, you can have the proposal authorized immediately provided you provide:

  • Evidence of owning a property
  • Application form
  • A document confirming the replacement of the roof that is removed to comply with building regulations
  • Building plans
  • Drawings showing the height or vertical dimension

Step 3 Select a suitable type of shingles.

Select a suitable type of shingles. Shingles come in numerous types, some better suited for specific regions and roof designs. Choose something suitable for your location, your home, and the job you are working on.

Asphalt shingles are the most widespread kind of roofing shingle. They are sturdy and can remain intact for 20 to 30 years under suitable circumstances.

Strengthened with fiberglass, asphalt shingles frequently have small amounts of roofing material or tar that adhere to the shingles above them.

Slate shingles are the most substantial and long-lasting type available for purchase.

Since they are fragile, need specific pressure cutters for cutting, and weigh approximately three times more than ordinary shingles, selecting slate for your roofing job is best suited for experienced roofers seeking a challenge.

Slate roofs are excellent if you desire to establish a distinctive and long-lasting roof for your property and are ready to put in additional effort.

Laminated shingles resemble slate tiles but are made of stacked asphalt shingles. They are alike but slightly thicker than asphalt shingles; thus, working with them would be a comparable project.

If you appreciate the appearance of slate but want a more convenient option, you should investigate these varieties of shingles.

Wood shingles are frequently hand-split shakes made from cedar, spruce, or pine. Found often in New England coastal areas, wood shingles permit expansion and provide a natural weathered appearance that many people find appealing.

The spacing should be adjusted slightly to allow for expansion, but if fitted correctly, these shingles usually have a lifespan of around 30 years.

Step 4 Find out the quantity.

Calculate the number of shingles required for the task. The space that shingles cover is measured as a square of 100 square feet (9.29 square meters). Yet, shingles are typically sold in bundles, with about three bundles needed to cover 1 square.

To determine how many bundles to buy:

  1. Measure the length and width of each roof part and multiply them to find the area.
  2. Combine the areas of all sections, then divide by 100 to find the total number of squares on the roof.
  3. Calculate this amount times 3 to determine the quantity of bundles you need to purchase.

Step 5 Determine the size.

Determine the length of a shingle while it is placed on the roof. This will assist in figuring out how the shingles will be positioned on the width of the roof. Typically, asphalt shingles measure 3 feet (91.4 cm) in length.

If the breadth of your roof could be a better multiple of the size of the shingle, you will end up with a half piece at one end of each row.

The lower row of shingles needs to extend beyond the border of the roof. To achieve this on a wood shingle roof, you must trim the shingles at the edge to ensure a straight line.

Getting the Roof Ready

Step 1 Ensure you follow the necessary safety measures.

Ensure you take the necessary safety measures. Several roofs have a steep slope and need roofing jacks to ensure safety throughout the work.

Scaffolding and toe boards are used to protect the area on and around the roof by preventing tools and equipment from falling off the roof and potentially hitting people passing by.

Place two sets of 10 jacks approximately 3 feet (0.9 m) apart above the roof’s edge. Ensure you use a sturdy pair of rubber-soled boots to maintain optimum grip while working on the roof. Protective eyewear and gloves are also helpful.

Step 2 Obtain a waste container on rent.

Hire a waste bin. Renting a big garbage bin helps dispose of the old shingles. Typically, this is priced at $200.

If you place it near the home and protect AC units, porches, and other items you wish to keep free from damage or clutter caused by roofing nails and debris, you can reduce the time needed for cleaning up later.

Step 3: Take off the shingles at the highest point farthest from the trash bin.

Take off the shingles at the highest point farthest from the garbage bin. Utilize a garden fork or a roofing shovel created to slide underneath the shingles and remove them efficiently, or you may do it manually with a hammer.

Remove the nails, starting with the ridge caps and then the shingles, and push them off towards the roof jacks. Take regular breaks to remove them and throw them away.

Don’t stress about collecting all the nails first; some will be removed with the shingles, and some will remain.

This is typically the task’s most physically challenging and messy aspect, so ensure you allocate sufficient time and effort to complete it.

The shingles are frequently heavy and dirty, so make sure not to allow them to accumulate too much before removing them from the roof and disposing of them.

Be very cautious with your footing and ensure you work in pairs. Consider getting a safety harness if you’re on a high roof.

Step 4 Eliminate the metal flashing surrounding chimneys, vents, and dips in the roof.

Take off the metal flashing from chimneys, vents, and valleys on the roof. Some roofers may reuse the metal flashing if it’s in good condition, so you should delicately remove the nails and lift them off.

Flashing in the lowlands is usually discarded, so be careful. Think about replacing all of it while you’re in the process. If it is questionable, discard it and put in new flashing.

Step 5 Wash the roof.

Remove debris from the roof. Clean the roof thoroughly, removing any loose nails missed when removing the shingles.

Reconnect flexible boards in the sheathing. Inspect the covering for any harm and decayed boards, and replace the affected parts as needed.

Step 6 Place an ice and water barrier and asphalt felt.

Place an ice and water barrier and asphalt felt. This bottom layer will act as a temporary barrier against the weather. If you have gutters, the ice and water barrier must extend over all the gutter flashing on the roof.

Secure it at the top with staples every few feet to keep it in place. After securing the whole section along the chalk line, raise the lower part, remove the backing, and then allow it to return to its original position.

The ice and water barrier will adhere to the roof right away.

Unfold and secure with staples 30-pound. It was extended across the remainder of the roof. Use a generous amount of staples (5/16 in.) to enhance the safety of the felt for walking and prevent it from being blown off. This is when the hammer-style stapler (about $30) becomes beneficial.

Step 7 Finish preparing your roof by applying the asphalt roofing paper.

Finish protecting your roof by using asphalt roofing paper. Utilize tin caps, around 2 inches (5 cm) round metal discs, beneath roofing nails to prevent felt from ripping and being carried away by the wind, especially if there is a possibility of wind before shingles are installed.

Ensure the paper stays aligned by marking a straight line on the roof deck using chalk and measurements from the bottom. Avoid using the edge of the roof as a straight line.

Doing that makes the paper uneven, resulting in wrinkles in the material. Let the feet hang over 1/4 inch (6.5 mm) to 3/8 inch (1 cm) at the roof’s lower edge.

Installing the New Roof

Step 1 Attach drip molding along the edge of the roof.

Install drip molding along the edge of the roof. Utilize roofing nails, placed 12 inches (30 cm) apart, protruding 1/4 inch (6.5 mm) to 3/8 inch (1 cm) past the roof’s edge, on top of the felt paper.

Step 2 Position the flashing in the areas where two portions of the roof meet to form a valley.

Position the flashing in the areas where two roof pieces meet to form a valley. Secure this firmly as you did with the drip molding. Flashing is available in pre-made shapes, either pre-bent to fit or flat for cutting.

Some roofers enjoy saving old flashing that can be used again. Valley flashing typically deteriorates; however, assess its condition to determine if it is still functional. Usually, you’ll need to replace it.

Step 3 Create a series of chalk lines with 6-inch (15-cm) spacing.

Mark a series of chalk lines with 6-inch (15-cm) gaps. Utilize the chalk markers to keep the shingle rows straight.

Step 4 Place the starter.

Place the appetizer. Follow the chalk lines and secure your shingles by nailing them every 6 inches (15 cm). Place each nail 3 inches (7 cm) apart from the top border of the shingle.

Depending on the type of shingles you choose, you can trim a specific first row or a roll of strip material to fit the size of your roof.

When utilizing three-tab shingles, place the nails around 3/4 inch (1.8 cm) above the cuts, close to where the tab connects with the top half of the shingle.

Additionally, position a nail 2 inches away from either end of the shingle, aligned with the other two. Altogether, you will need four nails for each 3-tab shingle to ensure they are secure.

Step 5 Place the first row.

Place the initial layer. Place a horizontal chalk line above the initial row as a reference and detach the plastic strips on the back of the shingles in the package.

Trim six inches from the first starter shingle nailed on, then use the remaining ones at full size. Moving them like this will connect the ends of the initial row of shingles placed over the beginning shingles.

Instead, you should put full-sized shingles in a row, flipping them so the tabs face upwards.

Step 6 Place the second row of shingles.

Place the second row of shingles. Position the initial shingle of the second row half a tab, 6 inches (17 centimeters), away from the edge of the first shingle in the first row.

Ensure that the bottom of its tabs aligns with the tops of the cutout slots on the shingle below. This half tablet has to be trimmed where it extends over the left border of the gable roof.

Keep placing your shingles in the same simple way, cutting shingles to match the additional space you leave at the end of each row. Allow for extra space around vents, chimneys, and flashing, and focus more on those places.

Step 7 Install shingles around vents and chimneys.

Shingle around vents and chimneys. Trim a piece of flashing that sticks out approximately 6 inches from the pipe, with a hole in the middle large enough for the pipe to pass through. Place shingles over the flashing, secure them with adhesive, and trim a specific shingle to cover the pipe and complete the task.

Vent pipe “boots” (really just flashing) can be purchased to cover vent pipes for extra protection. A rubber gasket ensures a tight fit and prevents the connection from leaking.

To install shingles around chimneys:

  1. Cut many flashing strips to bend and connect the chimney’s outer wall and the roof.
  2. Please put them in place as usual and overlap up to the edge of the flashing.
  3. Apply roofing glue and shingle over the flashing as normal.

Step 8: Place pre-cut ridge shingles

Place pre-cut ridge shingles on the roof. Apply roof adhesive cement to any exposed nails following the manufacturer’s guidelines. Ridge shingles or caps link the courses on one side to the next, providing a consistent appearance to the peaks.

Although pre-formed ridge caps are suggested, cutting and shaping your ridge shingles from standard three-tab shingles is also feasible. Trim them to fit and fold them over the peaks, as usual.

Step 9 Complete the task.

Complete the task. Roof work creates a significant amount of debris, so it’s crucial to allocate adequate time for thorough cleaning up afterward.

Nails, loose shingles, and other debris may be scattered in the yard and near the house, posing a potential threat if not cleaned up.

Some roofers use roller magnets, similar to analog metal detectors, to collect wayward nails. You can occasionally hire these from roofing companies or even borrow them for a few hours to ensure any hazardous nails are removed.


In conclusion, reroofing a house involves careful planning, preparation, and execution to ensure a successful outcome.

By following proper procedures, utilizing quality materials, and relying on experienced professionals when needed, homeowners can rejuvenate their roofs and enhance the longevity and safety of their homes.

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